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We would like to share some of the
insight we have gathered in over 20 years of living with, and loving,
cats.
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Litter and Litter Boxes
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We live with 6 cats in
an inner city townhouse. Our house does not smell "like cat."
I use a good quality clumping cat litter. I like EverClean, which
is a non-flushable clumping clay litter, and SweetScoop which is
made from wheat and is flushable. The litter boxes are scooped out
on a daily basis. I do not recommend using the perfumed litters
on the market. Cats can be turned off by the scented litters, which
means that they will quit using the litter box and use the floor
instead. This is not desirable. Besides, if you keep the litter
boxes clean, you do not need a perfumed litter.
I have some concerns about
the clumping clay litters and no longer use them exclusively. My
concerns are not based on any concrete medical information or even
anything I have read. It's just something I have thought about and
some opinions I have formed. I would appreciate feedback about this.
Here goes. Kitties sometimes ingest litter during the course of
their grooming. This is especially true for long haired kitties.
If kitties get hair balls from grooming, isn't it conceivable that
the problem could be compounded by the ingestion of clumping clay
litter. After all, this stuff can't be flushed because it clogs
the sewer lines. On the other hand, litters made from biodegradable
substances could more safely be ingested because they can more readily
be broken down by digestive fluids.
Some people insist that
each cat needs its own litter box. I maintain 3 litter boxes in
our 6-cat household. Our kitties are all spayed females and do not
seem to mind sharing litter boxes.
Two of our litter boxes
are covered and one is not. I think it is a good idea to have at
least one uncovered litter box in the house. With an uncovered box,
you can observe a kitty who is having difficulty urinating. All
breeds of cats, male and female, are subject to urinary infections.
You can tell if your kitty is having urinary problems if she sits
in the litter box for extended periods of time and produces little
or no urine. These conditions can be treated and cured, but it is
very important to seek quick treatment. It is much easier to observer
your cat's behavior in an uncovered box and you are much more likely
to spot urinary problems at an early stage.
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Veterinarians
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Good veterinary care is very important
to your cat's health and longevity. If you love your kitty, make
certain she has a regular veterinarian and goes in for an annual
checkup.
Some of my friends think they are
saving money by taking their pets to "pet supermarkets"
for annual shots. They take their pets to a "cheap"
veterinarian for routine procedures. They only use "the good
veterinarian" when life threatening conditions are involved.
What they do not comprehend is that they could actually be jeopardizing
their beloved pet's health. Furthermore, saving a few dollars
on shots could mean more money in the long run because a medical
problem has not been diagnosed and treated at an early stage.
While it is true that "pet supermarket" shots are considerably
cheaper than an annual checkup, that's tantamount to comparing
what it costs me to go to a clinic for my annual flu shot to what
it costs me to go to my doctor for my annual physical. Furthermore,
I've compared the charges of the "cheap" veterinarian
to those of the "good" veterinarian and they are insignificant.
During their annual checkup, my kitties
not only get their shots. They get complete physicals. Our veterinarian,
Dr. Giles, alerts us to any health problems she may see developing.
She lets me know if any of my kitties need dentistry. On those
occasions when my kitties have gotten sick, their complete medical
histories are readily available to her. A good veterinarian, like
Dr. Giles, is even a better veterinarian when and can give better
care when she knows the animal and their medical history.
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Dogs vs. Cats
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Some of our friends refer to us as
"cat people" while insisting that they are "dog
people." While we currently live with 6 cats, my husband
and I have both had dogs in the past. Even though I refer to them
as "pooh eaters", I like dogs. One interesting observations
I have made is that a lot of "dog people" do not own
any pets at all.
When adopting a pet -- any pet --
you need to fully comprehend the responsibilities involved. If
you have a dog, you need to understand that you will need to get
up on cold rainy mornings and walk the dog before you go to work.
Then, after putting in a full day on the job, you will need to
come home and walk the dog again. Oh, and one more walk before
going to bed. When I owned a dog, I felt terribly guilty because
I often worked long hours. I thought of my poor little doggie
sitting there with her legs crossed waiting for me to come home.
In many ways, cats are easier to care
for than dogs. Still, there is considerable work and responsibility
involved. Litter boxes need to be cleaned at least on a daily
basis if you do not want your house to "smell like cat."
All of our cats require a lot of grooming, and an occasional trip
to the groomer for trimming.
People who do not know cats often
refer to them as "aloof." My husband often laughs about
the "aloof" show cats we observe giving their owners
an affectionate kitty kiss. Our cats are waiting to greet us at
the door when we come home from work. Furthermore, our cats will
not settle down for the night until they are sure that my husband
and I are both safely home. Anyone who thinks cats are aloof or
not friendly has obviously not met our cats -- especially the
lap fungus, Panyan Pou!
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Declawing
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Don't do it! I'm going to take a stand
here which may not be popular. However, it is my belief that if
you plan to adopt a kitty and plan to have it declawed, you should
not be adopting the kitty. People who put the well-being of their
tacky replaceable upholstered furniture above that of an irreplaceable
kitty need to reexamine their values and the commitment required
to be a good cat owner.
That said, there are other alternatives
to declawing. There is an excellent product on the market called
Soft Paws®. They are
caps that are glued onto the cat's claws. Most veterinarians will
outfit your kitty with Soft Paws for you and show you how to do
it yourself. Some groomers also apply Soft Paws.
Our kitties are very good about using
their scratching posts. I have experimented with various scratching
post materials (carpet, sisal and tree bark) and find that our
kitties use the sisal posts the most. Kitties like to stretch
when they scratch. So, make sure you get a scratching post tall
enough so your kitty can stretch out. I had a scratching post
custom made so it would be tall enough for my Maine Coon Cat,
MeCoon. You should also make sure your scratching post is sturdy
enough so that it doesn't move or (heaven forbid) tip over while
your kitty is using it.
Finally, put the scratching post in
a location where the kitty will use it. I had a friend who told
me that she could not get her cat to use the scratching post.
Come to find out, she had put it behind the door in the spare
room that no one uses. No wonder kitty wouldn't use it! Our most
used scratching post is in a high traffic area between the living
and dining rooms.
I sometimes rub catnip into the sisal
on the posts, which entices the kitties to scratch. However, in
my multi-cat household, I have not had to train my kitties to
use the scratching post. If one kitty uses the scratching post,
the other kitties will follow suit.
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Food
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Despite what MeCoon says, we actually
do feed our cats. No matter how much you love your cats, remember
that they are cats -- not people. Foods that are good for humans
are not necessarily good for cats. Some human foods, such as onions
and chocolate, can even kill cats! It is important that you feed
your cats a good quality food specially formulated for the nutritional
needs of cats.
There are many excellent cat foods
on the market. Some are better then others. Wellness©
is far and away the best cat food I have found. Our kitties love
it!
If you can't find Wellness© cat
food in your area, I also recommend Nutro's
cat foods They have an extensive product line. I frequently feed
my cats Nutro's Natural
Choice which is available at most pet stores.
Our cats are fed dry food almost 100%
of the time. The crunchy foods are better for the cats' dental
health than wet foods. We also "free feed" our cats,
meaning that food is available around the clock. However, MeCoon
complains if the dishes aren't filled to the brim. At one point
we had to put MeCoon on a diet, which meant that food was only
put down in the mornings and evenings. Now that she's a mean,
lean, purring machine, we have resumed the free feeding and MeCoon
is holding her weight.
It's also important that you feed
your cats from the proper china (Panyan Pou made me say that).
Seriously, you should choose dishes that are easy for your cat
to eat from. Cats like for their whiskers to be free and clear
while they are eating. The dishes should be wide enough to accommodate
their whiskers. Obviously, a dish which is good for a Siamese
cat might not be wide enough to accommodate a flat-faced Persian.
While some people put their cats' food on saucers, I have found
that my kitties push more food from a saucer onto the floor than
they consume. Cats can actually develop acne from their food dishes!
This usually occurs if plastic dishes are used. Plastic is porous
and harbor bacteria. I recommend metal or ceramic dishes. Panyan
Pou recommends Waterford and Wedgwood.
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Fleas & Ticks
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If your
pets spend any time out of doors, you need to protect them against
fleas and ticks. If your cats are strictly indoors pets, it is still
possible for them to get fleas. Your dog could bring fleas inside.
Don't have a dog? You can also be the culprit who bring fleas inside
your clothing.
In "olden
times" I used flea collars on my pets (a dog and a cat). They
did not work. At least once a year I would end up carting my pets
to the groomer for flea baths. While the pets were out being de-fleaed,
I would set off flea bombs in the house. I would also spray my car
to make certain it was flea-free when I retrieved my animals from
the groomer. For a few hours my pets and I would enjoy our flea-free
environment. Inevitably, the next time I walked my dog she would
pick up fleas and the infestation cycle would start over.
Fortunately,
there are some excellent products on the market which make it possible
to have pets and still maintain a flea-free home. These products
are safe when used as directed (please don't drink the stuff!) and
easy to use. While they are certainly not cheap, they are cost-effective
when viewed in terms of the hassle of regular flea baths and the
expense of home flea extermination!
We have
used both FrontLine and Advantage on our cats. Both
are effective when it comes to keeping these evil parasites off
of your pets and out of your home. Of late, I have been using FrontLine
Plus because I have found that it lasts longer. I can usually
go 2 to 3 months between applications. I usually do not need to
apply FrontLine during the winter months (after the first
killing frost until about April in Zone 7). However, there have
had some mild winters when the fleas were viable throughout the
winter. My general rule is that I apply FrontLine whenever
I see the kitties starting to scratch themselves more often that
the occasional itch would require.
I
usually buy FrontLine in 6 or 12 packs through my veterinarian.
You can also purchase this product conveniently online through http://www.1800petmeds.com
or by clinking on the link above. I have not found either FrontLine
or Advantage for sale in pet stores. While pet store products
may be less expensive, I have not found them to be anywhere nearly
as effective. I would certainly be interested in hearing from anyone
who has found any less expensive products that work as well as FrontLine
and Advantage.
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Please e-mail your comments
to me.
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This
site designed and maintained by SBDS
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Created on:
January 17, 2003
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